Wednesday, December 20, 2006

Rake, rake, rake is what I do in my yard. Clean yards being along the lines of importance of religion and food in my town, I do the minimum amount of work required to maintain a sense of decency in my community. The big mango tree is currently my enemy; I must wait 3-4 months for it to hechar las frutas and then maybe we can call a truce.

Last night, as the sun was setting, shouts from a volleyball game across the street could hardly be discerned over my labored breathing. My chosen weapon was a heavy metal rake, the strategy to move a gigantic, already mouldering pile of lives from its station beside the house to the side of the yard, about 15 feet away. By the time dusk arrived and the volleyballers had long ago wandered home for dinner, I was almost ready to wave the little white flag. When the mosquitos rose from their moist-leaved depths to devour my dirt-covered flesh I gave the pile a final pound and ran for cover.

I must note that all of this was being done while breathing in not only the allergy-inducing leaf and grass dust, but the smoke of the neighbors´ burning leave piles. Oh, it was so tempting...why not strike that match and burn the pile where it stood? I haven't even given the charla on the evils of burning trash/leaves/crops and contamination yet. However, there are the ever-present eyes, and my own integrity to consider. These little moments are when I really feel the responsibility of being a Volunteer.

Friday, December 15, 2006

Recently I've latched onto a few projects worth mentioning. First, for the past 2 months or so, I've been teaching English classes: one for adults, and one for kids, both once a week in the nearby school. English classes are secondary, voluntary projects for Volunteers (although after last week's training seminar I wouldn't be surprised if English is a mandatory activity in the future). I've enjoyed getting to know more community members through the classes, and unlike some other subjects, English is something in which I can claim to be an expert. Most often, the classes are informal and fun.

A recent meeting with my community revealed a few potential projects that I've begun researching and developing.
1. Since classes are out for summer (dry season) vacation as of this week, I am planning on starting a Panama Verde group for adolescents who may otherwise be bored over summer vacation. Kind of like an environmentally-focused scouts group, Panama Verde focuses on environmental projects, self-esteem and health education for adolescents in Panama.
2. Also, since there is no trash pickup in town, I am attempting to either organize a trash pickup service and/or educate about the benefits of recycling and composting. Hopefully this will help diminish the currently large amount of garbage being burned every day.
3. Finally, I'm working on a grant proposal to upgrade the dilapidated turtle hatchery on playa La Barqueta. These projects should keep me busy for the next couple months, starting in January after the holidays!

Feliz Navidad!

Thursday, December 07, 2006


After a few days of refresher training courses, I am fried. The brain is working at the rate of a Panamanian sales clerk. The tech classes and advice from current Volunteers were inspiring, the Spanish lessons needed and the ocean swims refreshing. However, this is the first time our training group had been all together since July. Being isolated from all other Volunteers the majority of the time causes us to go on a bit of a social binge when we finally do get together. There was a lot of catching up to do and that we did and then some.

Two weeks until Christmas vacation! Mi novio Chan is coming down to keep me company during my first xmas away from home. I'm excited to do some more traveling within the country. The ever-changing itinerary presently consists of:

Dec 22-24: Panama City - Panama Canal, Casco Viejo
Dec 24-25: Cerro Punta, in the highlands of Chiriquí
Dec 26-27: Boquete, Chiriquí (hiking, coffee tour, Volcán Baru)
Dec 28-29: Los Pocitos, Chiriquì (my site) on the coast
Dec 29-Jan 04: Portobelo, Islas Kuna Yala, Panama City

It will be difficult to stay focused for the next couple weeks!

(The pic is from back during training days)

Wednesday, November 29, 2006


My lips were medio-purple I was so cold. It was raining in the cool mountain town of Volcán yesterday, but the parades still marched on. And on and on literally all day and into the night. Marching bands from colegios all over the country slowly moved thdown the street, the students oblivious to the cold rain that soaked their costumes through. After months of practice, they were not going to let a little rain spoil the mood on the final day of the Fiestas Patrias. I, on the other hand, was glad to be tucked under and umbrella, coffee in-hand. The mood was festive, and I fully enjoyed the day of parades, crafts, music, friends and food. A woman who attends my English class took me under her wing for the day. She and her husband brought me up from David to enjoy the festivities in Volcán. Their youngest daughter just graduated from high school and is spending a few months studying English in the States, so I got to be the hija for the day. I stayed with them in David for the night. They made me feel very welcome and I am grateful for their kind hospitality.

David, being one of the larger cities in Panamá, has a higher standard of living than even where I live, only an hour away in el campo. My stay last night in a regular David house made me realize that there are many things I have learned to live without, and others that I have actually forgotten about.

Luxury items: napkins, hot showers, hair dryers, flush toilets, glass windows, electric appliances, anything not plastic (glass plates, glasses, wooden chairs, etc.), tile floors, cleanliness...

Things I'd forgotten about: cream cheese, real orange juice - the kind with pulp, paper towels, those little mats you put in the shower, bathroom rugs, bowls made specifically for sugar, candied apples

Compared to some of my fellow Volunteers, I still live in relative luxury at my site, but I'm glad I am growing to appreciate some of the things that I used to take for granted.

That being said, today I'm going to buy a bunch of cheap, plastic things to put in my house! With the help of my boss, I managed to consiguir una casa and I should be moved in by the end of the week. Excitement! I really do love my host family, and they've treated me very well these past few months, but I will love them more once I have my own little space. Perhaps today I will pick up that celebratory bottle of wine that's been on hold for awhile...cheers!

Saturday, November 25, 2006


It wasn't a traditional place, but the Thanksgiving dinner was not missing any of the essential elements. Cerro Punta was an impressively beautiful place, and the cool climate made the holiday atmosphere complete. I even managed to fully enjoy a couple cups of hot chocolate, topped with fresh whipped cream and cinnamon, the likes of which I've never experienced before in my life. The 100 or so Volunteers that flocked to the Los Quetzales Lodge in Cerro Punta were perhaps a little homesick at times, but surrounded by friends and good food, we were far from being disappointed. Thanksgiving in Panama was another incredible experience that will never be forgotten.

Friday, November 17, 2006



This entry has no theme. Little educational and/or serious life reflections will be covered, so you're in for a treat! The picture above was taken of the Panama City skyline from Hotel Plaza Paitilla Inn, a hotel with great views for a good deal, in case you ever happen to be in the area.

Walking the streets of David earlier today, my sunglassed, no-nonsense stare and purposeful gait were interrupted by a lot of bulla a few blocks ahead. It was a parade, complete with a band: drums beating and horns blaring loudly, stopping the erratic movement of traffic if only for a moment. Although the display turned my head, this occurrence is not completely unusual, November being the month of the Fiestas Patrias (all celebrations involve numerous, lenghthy parades). However, as I scoured my memory for any mention of a November 17th holiday, I saw the sign. No, not The Sign, but a poster announcing the Grand Opening of the new American Style clothing store. Why wouldn't a grand opening call for an all-out parade? This is Panama, and I'm discovering any opportunity to make noise will be pounced on with zeal. I didn't go into the store, but had a sudden, almost irrepressable urge to run in and denounce the validity of the advertisements that screamed, "Authentic American Clothing!".

Being an American in Panama is interesting. "American" is a class in and of itself, since so many rich gringos have migrated to the area to retire, bringing with them their American-earned dollars and high standard of living. I promised nothing serious so I'll end the commentary there.

The other day I tried sugarcane for the first time. I have to admit, I was slightly disappointed. It was sugary, but far to woody for my taste. Being a chewing gum addict, I can't imagine chomping on thick cellulose for more than a couple seconds, sweetened or un.

In slightly older news, BusinessWeek placed the Peace Corps at #38 out of the 50 best employers for college grads, a little behind big investment and banking corporations, but ahead of Teach for America and the IRS. It's somehow comforting to have someone else (however random) confirm my choice of employer. Or did they choose me? Hmmm.

I'm looking forward to going up to Cerro Punta for a massive Volunteer get-together next week. A Thankdsgiving celebration will be held in the Parque Nacional de Amistad, said to be one of the most beautiful areas in the country (who can rank them, there are so many beautiful places!). I'm excited to celebrate the holiday with some American food and friends, in a cool climate that will provide additional authenticity. Happy Thanksgiving!

Friday, November 10, 2006




A week in the life of...

Monday night: danced to Shakira on iPod alone in room

Tuesday: finished reading copy of Newsweek. flipped it down on table to see an add featuring Shakira. considered it a sign. texted friends about Shakira concert.

Wednesday: met friends in David for 8-hour bus ride to Panama City. met more friends in Panama City. flip cup. total sleep: one hour.

Thursday: bought tickets. food. Shakira Shakira! total sleep: 0 hours.

Friday early morning: bus ride from Panama City to David on which slept. food. now. feliz dia de indepencia de Espana!

Sunday, November 05, 2006

What would happen if they suspended sales of alcohol in the US during the forth of July weekend? I imagine there would be rioting. At least a fair warning ahead of time and some major stocking up. This weekend is the beginning of the Fiestas Patrias, the celebration(s) of Panama's independence from Columbia, and Panama's flag day. I was in Panama City for the day before this event, and my girlfriends and I were disappointed to discover our much-looked-forward-to free sangria night at a local restaurant had been cancelled. We even tried to sneakily puchase a pitcher of sangria at another restaurant, and almost succeeded with the waitress until someone more knowledgable in the kitchen informed her that no alcohol was to be sold that day (they even had a glass of wine advertised on their nightly special! so close!) Actually, all sales of liquor, wine and beer were postponed for the day before, and the first day of the celebration weekend. Panamanians took this change in stride, as they do with most things. It was the first year that alcohol was prohibited at two of the traditionally alcohol-infused days of the year: fiestas patrias and the voting on the Panama Canal Referendum. And with good reason.

About two weeks ago an electical glitch on a bus in Panama City caused it to suddently burst into flames. Eighteen people died in the inferno; a tragedy. The day-long-prohibition was called in honor of the families of the victims of the bus accident, and it truly was a day of silence. I'm sure a few more tragedies were avoided during this day of sobreity, and only small disappointments felt upon being deprived of sangria.

Tuesday, October 31, 2006




I've been pasear-ing to different places this past week. Being away more than usual has made it a little easier to bear with still living with a host family, even though I technically could move out any time now. If only there was a house ready to move into...

Wednesday I had the opportunity to go on a trip to the Comarca Ngöbe-Bugle. The comarcas are areas independently goverened by the indigenous tribes of Panama. The poverty level is greater in these areas, however the beauty is astounding. The Ngöbe and Bugle tribes were two independent tribes that combined to rule the area just north of the province of Chiriquì. I went with a group from the national environmental authority, ANAM, to observe and assist with a day-long training of new ANAM volunteers from the Comarca. The day was interesting and inspiring, meeting many people living in poor conditions, yet were motivated and excited about developing more environmentally sustainable ways to live. For example, traditional farming in Panama involves a lot of slash-and-burn agriculture methods, and in the Comarca the burning is relatively uncontrolled, sometimes spreading to virgin rainforests as well as polluting the air with thick smoke. The farmers of the Comarca Ngöbe-Bugle are interested in learning about other ways to farm, such as making organic fertilizer, and investing in reforestation projects.

A lot of work goes into a cup of coffee, as I found out on Friday I went to visit a friend's site to help with a small coffee harvest and roasting. Coffee is abundant in the mountains of Chiriquì, where some of the best coffee in the world is grown, some of which has been sold for over $50 a pound. My friend and I hiked around the gorgeous coffee fincas in a valley of Volcan Baru, many of which use sustainable shade-growing techniques, and some of which are organic certified. After the hike, we headed to tostar some green coffee beans. The beans are red when on the tree, and are first dried for about at week in the sun, and then de-shelled using either a traditional mortar and pestle method, or on a larger scale, taken to a coffee processing plant. We were roasting a small batch for a local family, so I worked to smash the dry beans, removing the husk but keeping the green beans whole. The husked were then separated completely from the beans by shaking the mixture on a flat board before picking away husk remnants. Finally, the beans were roasted in a large pan over an open flame for about two hours, being stirred constantly, until they were roasted an even, oily black. I drank a lot of very fresh coffee during that trip.

A couple nights ago my friend came to visit, and we spent a night patrolling the beach, looking for nesting sea turtles. The search was unsuccessful, but there will be other attempts! Today I'm heading to a Halloween party in Santiago, a town about half way to Panama City, before going to the city itslef for a few days. Maybe my house will be ready to move into when I return to my site this weekend!

Monday, October 23, 2006

No big surprise, the expansion of the Panama Canal passed with almost 80% approval.

Sunday, October 22, 2006

Today Panamanians vote on the future of the Panama Canal. The expansion will most certainly go through...read the speculations:

Read articles from:
In other news, a small article was written in the national newspaper La Prensa about the sea turtle releases at my site, La Barqueta. I was interviewed, and they spelled my name horribly wrong, but if you can read Spanish, it's a good summary.

Monday, October 16, 2006


I can't leave the house without getting my feet dirty. There is earth everywhere. Not imported, transplanted, water-sucking lawns, but dirt: dusty, muddy, dirtying. It gets on my clothes and doesn´t come out. It becomes caked on my sandaled toes, to be brushed off before entering the city landscape, where only manufactured gasoline-exhaust dust is socially acceptable.

Around my house grow trees and plants that from this same dirt that produce edible items ranging from the mundane root vegetable to sweet, juicy, tropical fruits. Stores do exist for luxury items like milk and the oil that my host abuelita uses to fry everything in sight. I tend to seek out the grocery stores more often than the locals, not quite weaned off of their abundant wealth of imported choices. I enjoy feeling an attachment to the earth, and I am truly excited to begin an organic garden, compost pile and composting latrine when I move into my own little place.

There are endless ways to become re-attached to your own parcel of the planet:

1. "Live Consciously, Buy Wisely, Make a Difference" - Check out the New American Dream.
This is a comprehensive site of ways to "green" your life. Save fuel resources by buying from local merchants (find your closest stores and markets with this map!). Turn the Tide by making nine simple lifestyle changes, including replacing one car trip a week with an alternate mode of transport.

2. Don't know any alternate transport methods? Find them and become an advocate for public transportation. It will not only contribute to the health of the environment, but an improved tranport system can improve your own health as well. If you can't get there by public transport, think about carpooling or ridesharing. Of course, there's always walking or biking, if you are lucky enough to live in such a place where such things are possible without risking your life. If there are no sidewalks, form a group to lobby for better walking conditions!

3. Turn waste into yummy foodstuffs. Fancy bins aren't neccessary to compost organic wastes, and there's even indoor non-smelly wormbox methods if you don't have space for a pile. No better organic fertilizer to be found (except maybe the future compost from my sawdust bucket toilet that will most definitely make for some extra-juicy tomatoes next year).

These are just a few options to quench that Earth-Zen craving you didn't even know you had. There are a world of ways to break those Wal-Mart Superstore-inspired habits, even inside the confines of the ultra-comfy cushions of the American consumer society. Be inspired by the dirt.

Monday, October 09, 2006


Querida the talking parrot was there to greet me with a loud squawk upon my return from Panama City last week. My host abuelita asked me if I was going to buy a parrot when I move to my own place next month. She is very concerned about my living alone and lejos, even though the house is just around the corner. I have developed a certain attachment to the bird, and will be back to visit and converse with it once the move is made. For now, I´m waiting for the owner of the house to return from his work on a nearby island so he can begin finishing the place. Right now it has no sink, shower, latrina...virtually nada.

I was comforted by the parrot´s greeting after an exhausting week in the city...a nice welcome back to the tranquilo lifestyle in the campo. I made the 14-hour round trip bus ride with intentions of getting a little work done in the office headquarters, and seeing some friends that were in town for a conference. Both of these goals were accomplished, but the change of lifestyle from 9pm bedtime to going out with friends in the American-esqe cuidad left me without much energy for our regional meeting in the mountain town of Boquete. Nonetheless, the meeting went well, and I was encouraged by meeting some of the veteran volunteers. The director of the entire Panama program came to my site the next day, and I may have been deliriously tired. Remembering the day arrives to my mind in snapshots, like a dream, one of which is the parrot singing his greeting to me as I stumbled in the door, forgetting to pay the taxi driver in my excited and tired state. What amazes me as I reflect on this day is that arriving to my host family`s house after almost a week away actually felt like coming home.

Friday, September 29, 2006


It looks so easy, the business of being a kid. What synapses in our brain die as we age? We stop growing, eventually (except our noses, ears and waistlines: the uglier parts), learn and move at a slower pace. The older we get the more pruned our brains become, shedding the "unneccesary" connections. Essentially, what appears to be simplicity in childhood is actually complexity, unrefinement, the happiness of a brain yet unformed but forming by a small world of experience.

Yesterday I spun in circles with my arms out until I got so dizzy I fell down. The second-grade girls next to me fell down a few seconds later, while my head spun in a spun-drunk dizzyness, the nauseous feeling finally fading about an hour later. The girls got up right away, ready to invent some other game involving a tennis ball and a pair of plastic flip-flops while I sat in the grass wondering if I ever truly thought that game was fun and needing a small helping hand to get up. Evidently a few of the nerves connecting my enlarging ears to my brain have died, making the sense of equilibrium harder to acheive after a good spin. If I spin like this every day can I re-learn to not get quite so dizzy?

Tuesday, September 26, 2006


Mental health is important, and in a new, foreign environment perhaps more difficult to maintain than under "normal" circumstances. Every couple of weeks my fellow Chiriquí volunteers and I get together to share stories, speak English and bounce ideas off of each other. These reunions are, of course, strategically planned to be located in interesting areas. The city of David is not so fascinating to me anymore, but our home base city was fun to explore during our first get-together. Playa Las Lajas is known as one of the most beautiful and best surfing beaches in the country, so in order to fully be knowledgable about our region of Panama, we had to visit this place as well. Boquete (aka "Gringotown") was a great escape into the mountains for some cooler weather and great coffee.

This past weekend, our group ventured to Isla Boca Brava, an island situated in the Golfo de Chiriquí. The islands in the area are densly forested and vibrant with life. It turned out to be the most nature-filled weekend any of us have yet experienced. One morning, we woke up to a group of howler monkeys climbing over our cabaña. That day, on an excursion to a white-sanded island (pictured above), we oohed and aahed over a humpback whale that glided nearby our boat. While on the island, a group of these whales breached repeatedly in a breathtaking show. I explored the coral reef nearby, a shelf dominated by P. damnicornis coral and small, brightly-colored reef fishes.

These outings are a terrific way to get to know the area as well as develop a vital support structure of friends for the next two years. Each leaves my spirit lighter and more uplifted and my mind filled with images of paradise. Anyone up for a visit to Panama?

Monday, September 18, 2006

Every day here is a humbling experience. Struggles range from basic communication (questions like "what did you do yesterday?" to "what is your opinion about the expansion of the Panama Canal?" can throw me into confused blubbering), to running a 13K through the heat of a Panamanian morning.

Saturday I completed my second carerra in Panama. I was proud to come in fourth place in the women´s category; fourth out of five women, second-to-last in the entire competition. In the States, coming in behind almost everyone would most likely have ended my competetive running career. There are a few reasons that my pride was not completely destroyed. First, races here are attended by a small number of "elite" athletes. Sure, two of the women who beat me were in high school, but they have trainers! Seriously, I was asked who my trainer was by more than one person before the race. The other woman who finished out of sight, far in front of me, was most definitely a marathon runner, as were most of the men who competed, including my friend, Marcial. Marcial runs 20K on the beach every morning, and most afternoons bikes another 40K or so. I told a few people he was my trainer since a couple times a week I trudge along next to him for a portion of his sandy workout. Also, although I had goosebumps the morning of the race, by around 8:30am when the race began (a half an hour behind schedule, true to Panamanian time), the sun was out in full force and it was HOT. There was one water stop along the way, and the people with the water decided that they would drive their car about 200m in front of me, pacing with one guy, who had full water priveleges for the remainder of the race. I watched from behind, unable to catch up, panting, struggling, thinking I may pass out before I reached the end. However, I was motivated by the one person behind me (a 14-yr old girl), determined that I would not come in last, or at least that I would finish. And I did finish, completing the last torturous lap around the center of the town amidst staring and sometimes clapping Panamanians who were fascinated by the gringa with the reddish-purple face who was giving them odd looks because clearly she didn´t know the route of the race and there was no one there to give her directions. The best part was the brindis after the race. The Pepsi and hamburger were not traditional post-race fare, but they were awesome! Why didn´t the race people in the States think of this? Who wants a dry, bready bagel and some bland Gatorade when you can have syrupy soda and a greasy, mayonaise-smeared hamburger right after you run 13K?! No better way to rehydrate!

The first race I competed in here was a 5K, where I was almost lapped by the men running (3 laps around the fairgrounds) and actually did come in last because the one other woman running with me dropped out after one lap. So actually I won first prize, two Precious Moments coffee mugs, which truly are precious to me. The mugs are an emblem of the energy that keeps me going through these competitions, a concentrated form of the persistence that pushes me through each day. In the races especially, I am on exhibit, like the monkey on a leash at the agriculture fair... a strange species... a white woman who runs in races!!! The same qualities that place me in the minority status here in Panama (often attracting unwanted attention in the cities) project me to the celebrity class at my site. This can be a daily struggle for an introvert such as myself (read the article behind the link...it´s terriffic!!!). However, being in this environment is like an accellerated class in life lessons... the importance of persistence and humility for starters...just the experience I was looking for when I accepted this assignment. I have to admit, however, that I never imagined I´d learn from sweating gallons, feet pounding on a flat, sunny road through the sugar cane fields of Chiriquí.

Tuesday, September 12, 2006

This week I started teaching in a couple of the nearby schools. I helped organize a clean-up weekend for this coming Friday and Sunday, so the topic of the classes was environmental contamination. We played a game, sang a song, I attempted to say a few words. During today´s class the director made a few comments to the students about how they should pay extra attention to me when I speak because I have an accent and say things differently (and accidently called a niño a niña - called him a girl, to the amusement of his peers). All in all, the classes went well and I look forward to working with both schools in the future.

The kids make the whole experience of embarrassing myself worthwhile, defining the expression of laughing with me, rather than at me. Their innocence, interested questions and energy are a welcomed relief from the sometimes condescending and impatient adult world. If I ever feel lonely, I will go to one of the schools and immediately be surrounded by kids yelling my name and not feeling bad when I have no other answer than "hola" because there are so many and their names are spoken to me in shy whispers; different names hard to grasp and even more difficult to remember.

Students are so used to simply copying from the blackboard and listening for hours on end that any mention of a hands-on activity immediately wins over a class. I feel like the grandparent or cool aunt, going to the school once or twice a week and spoiling the kids with fun activities and leaving most of the discipline and hard work to the teachers the rest of the week. However, it´s the fun activities and songs that I remember most from school, so I have no doubt that expanding the limits of the Panamanian educational system´s techniques will do much harm. Perhaps the teaching I dreaded will become my favorite part of this experience here in Panama.

Tuesday, September 05, 2006




PROYECTO DE ECOTURISMO, LA BARQUETA

There is a need to organize and further develop the conservation and tourism activities of playa La Barqueta. Today, tourists from around the world travel to Barqueta beach to enjoy the calm beauty of the area. There are independent measures being taken by members of the community to conserve and protect the marine turtles that arrive to the beach and clean the area of garbage. To better and further develop these activities in order to serve the community and educate tourists, it is necessary to work together with every interest group to establish a sustainable ecotourism project on Barqueta beach.

Barqueta beach, located within the coastal zone of the Gulf of Chiriquí, is an important nesting site for the Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys livaceae), Loggerhead (Caretta caretta), Green turtle (Chelonia agassizi), Leatherback (Dermochelys coriaceae), and Hawksbill (Eretmochelys imbricata) sea turtles, five of the eight species of sea turtles that exist in the world, all of which are in danger of extinction. The wildlife refuge La Barqueta serves to protect these turtles. Also, the area possesses a significant amount of mangroves, bird nesting sites, and forms a part of a route for migratory birds.

Gains from ecotourism can amplify available funds to contribute to conservation measures in the area. More support is necessary to protect and conserve the sea turtles of La Barqueta. Many threats exist for the turtle mothers that arrive to the beach to deposit their eggs in nests dug into the sand. Dogs bite the fins of the turtles, killing them indirectly and slowly because they will not be able to swim when they return to the ocean. Humans plunder the nests, removing the eggs and selling them in the black market for US $0.50 - 1.00 per egg. The myth that turtle eggs are an aphrodisiac is slow to fade in Panama, and the eggs are ingested at local bars along with the local brew. Sea turtle is still eaten in this area of the world, and turtles at this beach are sometimes killed for their meat as they lay their eggs.

The Comité de Ambientalistas de Alanje was a group formed in the eighties to protect the sea turtles at Barqueta beach. During their years of operation, the group collected approximately 11,000 eggs per year, freeing around 9,000 hatchlings each year. With the arrival of a hotel and other tourism operations in the area, conflicts arose with the environmental group, and it is now in a state of stagnancy and degredation. Local volunteers (aka. one of my assigned partners) patrol the beach every morning to collect the eggs deposited over night and move them to protected viveros. The national envionmental authority, a youth group called Panama Verde, members of local universities, and a few local volunteers give educational talks to the community, hold turtle liberations where the neonates are release from the vivero, and organize beach clean-ups.

Development of an ecotourism project requires support from both the community and local agencies. It is necessary to organize an ecotourism committee to manage the conservation and tourism activities, and to find and train potential guides. Further considerations are the marketing and money management aspects of the project. There are several interest groups in the area, including the national environmental authority, local businesses, schools, youth groups, and universities, that can organize to develop a sustainable project. These groups, with help from the national tourism committee, can form a powerful business enterprise.

Why ecotourism at Barqueta?

1. Increase the amount of beach patrols. Currently, one man alone patrols 20 km of the beach every morning (he runs). Also, the national environmental authority patrols the beach off and on, fairly unreliably. With more funds and heightened interest through education, members of the community can work together to patrol the area every night, and serve as guides for ecotourists. One potential activity could include night walks with tourists, to watch for turtles coming to lay their eggs and protect them from predators.

2. Minimize poaching activities. Some of the profits from ecotourism will be used to pay members of the community to bring the eggs to viveros, rather than sell them on the black market in David. An increased number of beach patrols should also help to decrease poaching.

3. Increase education about sea turtles on a local and international level. With organized conservation activities there are many opportunities for education. In the community, field trips to the beach to participate in beach clean-ups and neonate liberations can be a hands-on supplement to lectures in class. Ecotourism attracts tourists from around the world, increasing consciousness about this topic on a world level. Attention to the area will potentially attract support from international organizations.

4. Keep the beach clean. To have succuess with a tourism project, the beach should be cleaned frequently, using a regular schedule. This serves to provide a more beautiful view and also protects the turtles, as many die from ingesting garbage floating in the ocean. A favorite food of many turtles, the jellyfish, looks uncannily like a plastic bag floating in the water (I´ve made the mistake before myself!). If there is interest, ecotourists can be included in keeping the beach clean, picking up trash items during night walks.

5. Promote scientific study of turtles in the area. Organized conservation measures open the door to scientific studies. The development of updated databases will show the level of success of the project, and also attract international respect and support.

The majority of training of guides and economic development can be given by local agencies and organizations. Already there are many tourists that arrive to Barqueta beach to stay in the local hotel, cabanas, and enjoy the restaurants. Further advertising is necessary to attract more tourists (of the eco kind, especially), on a local and international level. Suggestions include development of a web page and contact with the local tourism agency. The majority of the expenses of the enterprise fall in the categories of paying members of the community as guides and compensating for eggs brought to the viveros by would-be poachers. Without getting into details, a small suggested donation per tour most likely will not enough to compensate for the current market price of the turtle eggs. Outside funds must be found, such as soliciting funds from nearby business enterprises (aka the hotel), or from outside environmental organizations. Perhaps an adopt-a-turtle project. I don´t know...I don´t know if we´ll have enough time...

With the multitude of natural resources in the area, there are many options for other ecotourism activities that could be advertised in packages. For example, the wildlife refuge La Barqueta offers the unique experience of a boardwalk through the mangroves where birds, monkeys and other animals reside. Guides could bring ecotrourists through the boardwalk, or through the mangroves on boats, and offer their knowledge about the local flora and fauna in addition to a refreshing coconut picked right off the tree. Also, there is great fishing in the area, both in the mangroves and deep sea. Kayaking, surf lessons...the options are endless. If the preliminary project is successful, it would be great to have some 4WDs for the less hearty to enjoy the tours. Or helicopter tours...that´s always cool. And skydiving into rice fields. We´re starting small.

(Loosely interpreted from my spanish...hehe)

Thursday, August 31, 2006




A walk through the mangroves in the wildlife refuge adjacent to my site provides a shady respite from the fuerte sun that beams down every day. The Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Barqueta was created to protect the fragile mangrove ecosystem, including the migratory bird species that come to rest in the trees´high branches for months at a time. Right now, hundreds of elegant, long-necked white egrets crowd the mangroves and the nearby rice fields. Other bird species include a variety of hummingbirds, ducks, hawks, vultures, pelicans, and yellow-breasted songbirds that sing fantastically.

Monkeys also reside in the mangroves and nearby forests. A friend of mine spotted one yesterday on the way home from a meeting. Locally known as the "cariblanca" (white face), this cute monkey was swinging from the branches as we drove by its tree. Stopping the car to watch for a moment, the driver compared the appearance of the monkey with norteamericanos. The driver then proceeded to explain that it was a very intelligent species, often chastised for stealing bananas and other delicacies off of occupied tables. I think they may also throw things at people, although I`ll have to ask a friend of mine to testify to this fact (he was attacked by a crap-slinging group last year). The driver may have been more correct about the white-faced monkey than he could have fathomed.

Tuesday, August 22, 2006


Fallen calabazo in a rainstorm in the backyard

Thursday, August 17, 2006


***I wrote this sitting in a yeye cafè, chuckling to myself as two gringas behind me ordered the same spinach quiche and cappucino as I had just polished off with pleasure. In the States, I love my imported mangos, coffee and wine.***

My host father in Santa Clara works six long days a week at a chicken factory outside of Panama City. ¨Chicken¨was the one English word my host brothers knew upon my arrival. Over a simple, tasty lunch of pollo y vegetales one day, my host mother casually remarked that even though Panama has a fairly large commercial chicken production business, the choice cutlets get sent to the United States. I hadn´t known the US imported chicken; I assumed most was ´grown´in the States, since driving by the smelly Midwestern chicken farms in my youth. Actually, Panama exports about $433 million of goods to the US yearly, neary one half of its total exports. The relationship of the US with Panama is an ongoing pirate´s tale of invasion, politcal unrest, and the search for true freedom.

During the free trade negotiations at the beginning of 2006, the agricultural minister of Panama resigned, citing worries about more lax health standards on US imports (1). Whether this is true or not remains negotiable, yet represents just one of the many high-pressure negotiations between the two countries. Exports of goods from Panama to the US began in the early 1900s with the conception of the United Fruit Company, a US-based banana plantation, located on Isla Colòn in Bocas del Toro. The successful construction of the Panama Canal under the supervision of President T. Roosevelt further complicated political relations between the two countries, ending in a treaty that handed over full control of the Canal to Panama in 1999 . Tensions reached a pinnacle during Operation Just Cause and the removal of Manuel Noriega in the 1980s, when the US invasion resulted in a greatly disputed number of civilian deaths (300-4,000).

Currently, the gorgeous country of Panama drips with alluring economic potential. Panama faces global pressure to expand the Canal, an issue the country will vote on in an October referendum. Advertisements blatantly insist the economic benefits of this expensive investment, backed by President Martin Torrijos. If managed with care, this project could be a boon to the economy, and even the environment, if measures are taken to carefully analyze the impact and allocate funds to environmental restoration as necessary (2). The tourism industry is growing exponentially, propelled by a flood of US retirees (3). I have already met quite a few of these friendly norteamericanos, many who live in the nearby mountain town of Boquete, and a small group who settled on my beach, La Barqueta. Finally, the US-based company Occidental Petroleum seeks to plant a new refinery on a portion of Puerto Armuelles, at the end of the peninsula that stretches into the Pacific near the Costa Rican border.

As development increases in Panama, the job markets change. Large-scale projects such as those mentioned above employ thousands in construction and tourism-based jobs. Many Panamanians are moving to urban areas to take advantage of the booming markets. However, as half of the country prospers, the other sinks deeper into poverty. Panama has the second-highest income disparity in Latin America, behind Brazil, with 37% of its residents living below the poverty line (2). If a current proposal to dam the Indio river for the expansion of the Panama Canal goes through, an estimated 3500 campesinos will be forced to give up their land (2). Advocates of the expansion rebut that the project will employ many thousands of Panamanians.

However, taking away the land for many of these poor farmers is stealing their right to choose the life they want to live. Others are forced into poverty by competition from larger (often foreign) coorporations and sell their land at a cheap price, only to return months later, broke and begging for a job from the same hotel/restuarant/spa owners that previously bought their land. The oil refinery at Puerto Armuelles will undoubtably boost the economy of the region (much more so the economy of the company), but at the price of the environment and the health of those who live nearby.

Yesterday, I sat in the back of a press conference about the proposal of the new US-owned refinery, held by a group of envioronmentalists from the Chiriquí region. I watched as slides from places in the US were shown as examples of what not to do when managing an oil refinery. A woman gave a passionate speech that brought tears to my eyes about the lack of sustainable options for the poor in the area of the proposed refinery. I have expressed discontent in the past, but for the first time in my life, I was ashamed of my country. A slide flashed by displaying the worldwide impact of air pollution from the US, a red cloud of toxins spreading over the northern hemisphere. I thought of the rejection of the Kyoto protocol and hunkered down further in my seat, avoiding the eyes of any cameras that may pass. I do not feel responsible for companies such as these, but as a norteamericano, I cannot remove myself from the masses, the consumerism that propels these companies to exist in the first place.

The fact is, I am not outright opposed to all large corporations and international development. There are many businesses who due their share to improve technology to be more environmentally friendly, and many rich who dedicate their lives to courageous projects. I am opposed to greed that preys off of the resources of other countries without giving back a fair share. In terms of percentage of GNP, the US falls short of all industrialized countries in terms of foreign aid, only recently moving up from last place by one (4). This is embarrassing. I am against those who blatantly take advantage of the world´s poor and the environment in developing countries where the infrastructure is not developed enough to stop such activities (and are sometimes blatantly encouraged). Panama´s tropical lushness is a fragile environment of intricately intwined ecosystems that daily are being destroyed. Ganadores clear rainforests to produce meat for the world´s fast food hamburger cravings, hotels spring up and erode away pristine beaches, and imports of goods wrapped in plastic fill the streets and air with their harmful biproducts, in a country with no infrastructure for garbage removal or recycling. The fact that many of these unsustainable practices are being done by Americans makes me immeasurably sad...and ashamed.

Living in this beautiful environment is a privilege I cannot possibly take for granted. I feel a huge amount of responsibility being an extranjero from the States. I wish to change the image of our country to one that encourages sustainable development, rather than being labeled as coming from a country that siphons the best of the world´s resources into its own bottomless pit of greed. Of course I can´t do this on my own. Build gardens on your city rooftops, buy locally grown organic produce, make an effort to use less gasoline, and por favor, don´t buy McDonald´s hamburgers. That´s all.

Saturday, August 12, 2006

Every night at 7:15 the sun sets and the land is ruled by two types of creatures of the night. Much of Panama, including the community of Los Positos, slams their doors against the mosquitos that come buzzing in droves, and as their abodes are secured against the first creature, the gente turn to stare into the big, ugly eye of the other. Slowly relaxing into well-worn cushions and plastic chairs, they stare, and it blinks back, not menacingly, but seductively. The creature and the people gaze into each other´s eyes until they are as one.

This interaction frightens me more than the risk of malaria and dengue fever, more than the huge waves that can sweep you a mile offshore, and much more than the tormentas that sometimes sound as if they will pound right through the zinc roof at night. It makes me shudder to the depths of my soul to watch this spectacle, that occurs even in the poorest of houses.

The televsion commercials are loud and cheesy, advertising for things that people in the campo don´t need and can´t possibly afford. But yet I watch as people buy them. First program of the night: the extremely sensationalized news shows the images of every dead body the camera could get its eye on that day. At 7, the novelas begin. Amplified soap operas show Latin Americans living as if they were in Beverly Hills or the OC. Myself not understanding the Spanish makes the terrible acting all the more comical, but doesn´t overshadow the psychological devastation.

As my new family watches the Spanish-dubbed movies that never made it in America, I wonder to myself what they did before the TV arrived. Due to the literacy level, very few people enjoy reading for pleasure, so I imagine it was more of the banter about the weather that goes on all day long. I don´t mourn as much for my host abuelitos, who are well into their 80s and would probably be in bed if not in front of the TV, but for the young Panamanians. They see the same wasteful lifestyles as the kids in America are enticed into desiring, but have even less of a chance of actualizing these emtpy wants.

My host mother in my training community confided in me her worry that her three boys would never further their education and get good jobs because they preferred to sit in front of the TV over studying. In Panama, the average education level is 6th grade, because in some places it is too difficult or expensive to transport children to high school. Although it is a law to attend school until the 12th grade, there are not enough high schools to make this enforceable. To those who are more fortunate, such as my previous host family, what a shame to see the opportunity for education go to waste because of the distraction of the TV!

In many places, nature still rules here, covering old house foundations with flourescent green moss and vines after just a few months. Fruit trees burst with their offerings in every other yard, and gardens and local fincas still provide most of the food for those out in the country. But as the TV brings with its intense stare the message of a "modern", urbanized, prepackaged lifestyle, fewer and fewer people appreciate the surrounding land of plenty. I search for insights on how to kill the creature who dominates Panama´s sticky nights.

Tuesday, August 08, 2006

A series of reactionary essays written shortly after 9-11, Barbara Kingsolver´s ´Small Wonder´is full of passionate reflections about the world, the environment, and peace. The fire within me burns more strongly these days, inflamed by this book as well as the events unfolding around me. Some of these things are beyond control - the ongoing fighting in the Middle East, the daily realization of a world of inevitable inequalities. Others, such as the local fight in my site between a few locals and the owners of the nearby resort, are becoming more within reach as I learn about the area and the people involved. I have to keep reminding those around me that I am not here to fight, but to establish good working relationships, to be diplomatic, and to encourage communication between the community, local agencies, and other outside groups such as the owners of the resort. This is my goal for the next two years, and with a firey spirit, I prepare myself to entire the lucha for peace.

Monday, August 07, 2006


Chocolate-brown eyes question my every step. What am I doing here? I can give the textbook answer: to raise environmental consciousness on a grassroots level, through projects in environmental education and youth groups, ecotourism, and sea turtle conservation. In theory, these ideas and projects are well-developed. However, how do I explain this to the eight-year-old who curiously inquires why I traveled far to visit her pueblo for the next two years? This week I am beginning to learn the value of building relationships, bridging the gap of language and culture, a sometimes frustratingly slow process. Hours will be spent talking idly about the weather, moments of misunderstanding and awkwardness will pass, and ultimately I will be able to call Los Positos my home. I am in Panama to be an ambassador of peace, and perhaps teach a few things along the way. I am already in debt to these people for the amount I myself have learned.

(The photo was taken during a day at Isla Taboga, and island near Panama City, during a brief vacation before arriving to my site)

Friday, July 28, 2006


The most rewarding experience from the two - month training was eating a spinach salad, freshly picked from my host family´s organic garden, my first experimental project. It is the most fantastically fresh and tender spinach that has ever entered this mouth. A sprig of the plant was generously donated during a visit to the Los Santos province, and carried back in a plastic bottle (pretty much the only way to recycle in Panama is to re-use). Now as I make my way to my site, I carry a sprig in yet another bottle, taken from the now fully-grown vine that resides back in the garden. If it dies in-transit, it may be impossible to interpret as anything other than a bad omen.

Friday, July 21, 2006





A tremendous thunderstorm, complete with hair-raising electrical activity, marked my last day of Spanish classes during training. Next week I will be sworn in as a Volunteer under the supervision of a few important people, in the Panama Canal Museum, and then tossed out into the country as if I knew what I was doing. My site visit last week both was both encouraging and overwhelming.

One night a storm knocked out the power in the house I was staying at in my site in Los Positos, and without the fan I could hear the sound of the large, strong waves that break on the shore of the nearby beach that resides just past a few bright green rice fields. Unfortunately, the waves aren´t the best for surfing, but I´m sure I won´t be able to resist the urge to jump in for a swim when the tide is low. The luxury resort, Las Olas, resides on Playa Barqueta, a 30 min jog from my town, so if anyone wants to visit and not sleep in a hammock, a room can be arranged at the resort. However, the presence of the resort and its wealthy owners creates an interesting dynamic in a town of rice farmers, a political situation that will most likely be unavoidable.

Saturday afternoon, I suddlenly found myself speaking on an environmental program on radio Chiriqui, a station broadcasted to the entire province. This was the result of a long series of confusing events, and the last place I ever thought I would end up. The week of my site visit was fast-paced, full of meeting people and being led around almost as if I were a celebrity, and as if I could actually understand the rapid Spanish that was thrown at me from all directions.

I both dread and look forward to returning for a daunting two years to the land of lush vegetation, fruit trees weighed down with their gifts, soothing ocean breezes, and many people with their many expectations.

Wednesday, July 05, 2006


It´s about a twenty-minute walk from my technical class in the rainforest, up the gigantic hill through Santa Clara, to my host family´s little blue house. This morning, I stuck out my tongue to catch the salty drops of sweat that cascaded down my face and dripped from my nose, drenching my clothes in minutes. Ducking into the house with a quick "Buenas!" to greet the family, I ran into my room to change, attempting to avoid the comments about how red my face was from the hike. Before the door closed completely, my host mother beckoned me, and as I poked my head out, I was greeted by a large, naked, recently plucked chicken that just this morning was running and squawking contentedly around the yard. The laughter of my host mother gave away my shocked expression, and soon the entire family was gathered around to watch my reaction to this odd, somewhat disturbing sight.

As I learn more about the people of Panama, and the work I will be doing, I am increasingly excited about the next two years. The last two weeks of training were a blur, as a small group of us were temporarily relocated to a site near the beach for more specific cultural and technical training. I especially enjoyed technical week, journeying to Isla Iguana- a protected island surrounded by coral reefs, Isla Canas- an island known for its "arribatas", when hundreds of sea turtles come to nest in a night, Pedasi- a chill surfing town where we learned about ecotourism and mangrove reforestation, and Playa Venua - the gorgeous, laid-back surfing beach where we spent our free weekend.

I await my first visit, next week, to my site in Los Positos with great anticipation.

Wednesday, June 14, 2006



LOS POSITOS, CHIRIQUI
province will be my site for the next two years! A 15 minute bike ride from the beautiful beach La Barqueta, and an hour away from the mountains and Volcan Baru, I can´t resist to brag that I have the best site in Panama. The Chiriqui province, one of the westernmost provinces on the border of Costa Rica, is known for its beauty and diversity. My work will most likely be distributed between environmental education projects in the nearby town of Guarumal, and a sea turtle conservation project on the beach. Other potential projects include ecotourism development, beach clean-up and work in the nearby mangrove-filled wildlife refuge. I can´t begin to describe the excitement I feel.

The next two weeks I will be training with others placed on coastal sites, back in the town of Canas, Los Santos. The first week will be cultural training, and the second advanced technical training, both conditioned to coastal areas in Panama. The six of us coastal trainees will undoubtably be a tight-knit group by the end of training!

Thursday, June 01, 2006

Ah independence! Traveling with a group of 34 gringos can be quite tiring after a couple of weeks. Today we were let loose on the country of Panama in small groups to visit sites around the country. The excitement of an airconditioned bus and chaperone-free travel has left me feeling slightly giddy (as well as the anxiousness of missing my chiva ride to the next city due to an urge to find an internet cafe).

I´m traveling with two others to a town in Los Santos, the southernmost, peninsular province in Panama, and tomorrow morning heading to the Pacific coast on my own to visit a current volunteer in Las Canas. I don´t know if I´ll be able to resist the urge to plunge through the mangove forest into the cool waters of the ocean...

Highlights so far: seeing squirrel monkeys jump through the trees, hiking through the jungle to get ´fertilizer´from the nest of leaf-cutter ants, building an organic garden with my host family, learning sustainable farming techniques, hearing a swarm of African flies buzz over our Spanish class, crossing the Puente de las Americas, coconut ice cream...

Friday, May 26, 2006

Hola! Finally a few minutes at a computer in Chorrera...We have a day in town today for meetings and limited time for shopping, etc. It´s a nice break from the heat, humidity and family in Santa Clara. There are 3 brothers (9, 13, 14) in my family, and their attention (especially from the 9 year old) is constant. It´s tiring to speak Spanish right now, but I´m anticipating a time when I´ll not only be able to understand people in my family and the community, but respond coherently with full sentences! Tech and language training are intense, 4 hour sessions, long, but necessary. So far, an enjoyable yet overwhelming experience!

Saturday, May 20, 2006

Panama! After a few days in country, I got my first real 'Panama' experience today during a visit to a rural community a few hours from Panama City. We hiked up Cero Cadaiguana (Zero Iguana face) mountain, where we were treated to a spectacular view of the communities below. The hazy expanse of the Pacific Ocean loomed in the distance. The site gave me a taste of what type of work I may be doing as well, from teaching in a school a few days a week, to reforestation and ecotourism projects. Tomorrow we leave from El Ciudad de Saber and go to our training community. I'll meet my host family for lunch tomorrow! Time to go practicar mi espanol....

Friday, May 12, 2006

Panama is an exciting place for a nature freak such as myself. Spanning two continents and two oceans, the small strip of land is a collision of species diversity. The country boasts the largest diversity of bird species in the world, including the exotic tucan, and the harpy eagle, a magestic bird with a 6-foot wingspan. Personally, I look forward to snorkeling (and hopefully diving) two oceans, separated by only miles of land! Unfortunately, Panama was one of the countries reported to be affected by the most recent Caribbean coral reef die-off, with bleaching affecting 70% of the monitored coral. Nonetheless, my snorkeling gear is a top priority on my packing list.

Thursday, May 11, 2006


Looks like I left Florida just in time!

Soon I will evade the telephone number trackers and travel to a place where the #1 item on my shopping list is a machete. The authors of this list were gracious enough to mention that I purchase the machete after arriving in Panama, and not bother trying to find one before leaving the states. Dang, I was hoping I could throw mine into my carry-on at the last minute...

Tuesday, May 09, 2006


The countdown is on.

May 15-17th: Washington, DC
May 17th-July 28: training in Panama City
July 28, 2006 - July 31, 2008: work in my assigned community (not yet known)

The last couple of weeks were a flurry of events. Moving out of Pensacola, traveling to Phoenix and the Grand Canyon, and finally returning home, to spend some time with the parents. Preparations that I should be making, such as packing and reflecting on my task ahead, have been largely postponed so far, as my time is mostly occupied by attempting to make my web site function and researching a new digital camera. I ultimately decided on the Canon A520, and splurged on an underwater casing. Even if I won't be doing much diving or snorkeling in Panama, I figure the case will protect the camera from the extremely humid conditions. Or so I tell myself to justify the purchase of a fun new toy.

Thursday, April 20, 2006




I decided to create a blog site to update while in Panama. I was convinced this was the logical thing to do, considering it can be updated from any computer, anywhere in the world. However, I'm more attached to my own web page, which is currently in development. It is my new obsession. The page is by the same title, but contains links to pictures and stories from past travels. I've found the internet to be the most reliable source of storing information so far, as my own techniques have proved quite less resilient (computers crashing, backup CDs getting scratched and ruined...). If you're so inclined to actually read this random assemblage of file storage and respond, I will be more than happy to reply.


Thursday, April 13, 2006

Starting a blog site...