It looks so easy, the business of being a kid. What synapses in our brain die as we age? We stop growing, eventually (except our noses, ears and waistlines: the uglier parts), learn and move at a slower pace. The older we get the more pruned our brains become, shedding the "unneccesary" connections. Essentially, what appears to be simplicity in childhood is actually complexity, unrefinement, the happiness of a brain yet unformed but forming by a small world of experience.

Yesterday I spun in circles with my arms out until I got so dizzy I fell down. The second-grade girls next to me fell down a few seconds later, while my head spun in a spun-drunk dizzyness, the nauseous feeling finally fading about an hour later. The girls got up right away, ready to invent some other game involving a tennis ball and a pair of plastic flip-flops while I sat in the grass wondering if I ever truly thought that game was fun and needing a small helping hand to get up. Evidently a few of the nerves connecting my enlarging ears to my brain have died, making the sense of equilibrium harder to acheive after a good spin. If I spin like this every day can I re-learn to not get quite so dizzy?

Mental health is important, and in a new, foreign environment perhaps more difficult to maintain than under "normal" circumstances. Every couple of weeks my fellow Chiriquí volunteers and I get together to share stories, speak English and bounce ideas off of each other. These reunions are, of course, strategically planned to be located in interesting areas. The city of David is not so fascinating to me anymore, but our home base city was fun to explore during our first get-together. Playa Las Lajas is known as one of the most beautiful and best surfing beaches in the country, so in order to fully be knowledgable about our region of Panama, we had to visit this place as well. Boquete (aka "Gringotown") was a great escape into the mountains for some cooler weather and great coffee.

This past weekend, our group ventured to Isla Boca Brava, an island situated in the Golfo de Chiriquí. The islands in the area are densly forested and vibrant with life. It turned out to be the most nature-filled weekend any of us have yet experienced. One morning, we woke up to a group of howler monkeys climbing over our cabaña. That day, on an excursion to a white-sanded island (pictured above), we oohed and aahed over a humpback whale that glided nearby our boat. While on the island, a group of these whales breached repeatedly in a breathtaking show. I explored the coral reef nearby, a shelf dominated by P. damnicornis coral and small, brightly-colored reef fishes.

These outings are a terrific way to get to know the area as well as develop a vital support structure of friends for the next two years. Each leaves my spirit lighter and more uplifted and my mind filled with images of paradise. Anyone up for a visit to Panama?

Every day here is a humbling experience. Struggles range from basic communication (questions like "what did you do yesterday?" to "what is your opinion about the expansion of the Panama Canal?" can throw me into confused blubbering), to running a 13K through the heat of a Panamanian morning.

Saturday I completed my second carerra in Panama. I was proud to come in fourth place in the women´s category; fourth out of five women, second-to-last in the entire competition. In the States, coming in behind almost everyone would most likely have ended my competetive running career. There are a few reasons that my pride was not completely destroyed. First, races here are attended by a small number of "elite" athletes. Sure, two of the women who beat me were in high school, but they have trainers! Seriously, I was asked who my trainer was by more than one person before the race. The other woman who finished out of sight, far in front of me, was most definitely a marathon runner, as were most of the men who competed, including my friend, Marcial. Marcial runs 20K on the beach every morning, and most afternoons bikes another 40K or so. I told a few people he was my trainer since a couple times a week I trudge along next to him for a portion of his sandy workout. Also, although I had goosebumps the morning of the race, by around 8:30am when the race began (a half an hour behind schedule, true to Panamanian time), the sun was out in full force and it was HOT. There was one water stop along the way, and the people with the water decided that they would drive their car about 200m in front of me, pacing with one guy, who had full water priveleges for the remainder of the race. I watched from behind, unable to catch up, panting, struggling, thinking I may pass out before I reached the end. However, I was motivated by the one person behind me (a 14-yr old girl), determined that I would not come in last, or at least that I would finish. And I did finish, completing the last torturous lap around the center of the town amidst staring and sometimes clapping Panamanians who were fascinated by the gringa with the reddish-purple face who was giving them odd looks because clearly she didn´t know the route of the race and there was no one there to give her directions. The best part was the brindis after the race. The Pepsi and hamburger were not traditional post-race fare, but they were awesome! Why didn´t the race people in the States think of this? Who wants a dry, bready bagel and some bland Gatorade when you can have syrupy soda and a greasy, mayonaise-smeared hamburger right after you run 13K?! No better way to rehydrate!

The first race I competed in here was a 5K, where I was almost lapped by the men running (3 laps around the fairgrounds) and actually did come in last because the one other woman running with me dropped out after one lap. So actually I won first prize, two Precious Moments coffee mugs, which truly are precious to me. The mugs are an emblem of the energy that keeps me going through these competitions, a concentrated form of the persistence that pushes me through each day. In the races especially, I am on exhibit, like the monkey on a leash at the agriculture fair... a strange species... a white woman who runs in races!!! The same qualities that place me in the minority status here in Panama (often attracting unwanted attention in the cities) project me to the celebrity class at my site. This can be a daily struggle for an introvert such as myself (read the article behind the link...it´s terriffic!!!). However, being in this environment is like an accellerated class in life lessons... the importance of persistence and humility for starters...just the experience I was looking for when I accepted this assignment. I have to admit, however, that I never imagined I´d learn from sweating gallons, feet pounding on a flat, sunny road through the sugar cane fields of Chiriquí.

This week I started teaching in a couple of the nearby schools. I helped organize a clean-up weekend for this coming Friday and Sunday, so the topic of the classes was environmental contamination. We played a game, sang a song, I attempted to say a few words. During today´s class the director made a few comments to the students about how they should pay extra attention to me when I speak because I have an accent and say things differently (and accidently called a niño a niña - called him a girl, to the amusement of his peers). All in all, the classes went well and I look forward to working with both schools in the future.

The kids make the whole experience of embarrassing myself worthwhile, defining the expression of laughing with me, rather than at me. Their innocence, interested questions and energy are a welcomed relief from the sometimes condescending and impatient adult world. If I ever feel lonely, I will go to one of the schools and immediately be surrounded by kids yelling my name and not feeling bad when I have no other answer than "hola" because there are so many and their names are spoken to me in shy whispers; different names hard to grasp and even more difficult to remember.

Students are so used to simply copying from the blackboard and listening for hours on end that any mention of a hands-on activity immediately wins over a class. I feel like the grandparent or cool aunt, going to the school once or twice a week and spoiling the kids with fun activities and leaving most of the discipline and hard work to the teachers the rest of the week. However, it´s the fun activities and songs that I remember most from school, so I have no doubt that expanding the limits of the Panamanian educational system´s techniques will do much harm. Perhaps the teaching I dreaded will become my favorite part of this experience here in Panama.

PROYECTO DE ECOTURISMO, LA BARQUETA

There is a need to organize and further develop the conservation and tourism activities of playa La Barqueta. Today, tourists from around the world travel to Barqueta beach to enjoy the calm beauty of the area. There are independent measures being taken by members of the community to conserve and protect the marine turtles that arrive to the beach and clean the area of garbage. To better and further develop these activities in order to serve the community and educate tourists, it is necessary to work together with every interest group to establish a sustainable ecotourism project on Barqueta beach.

Barqueta beach, located within the coastal zone of the Gulf of Chiriquí, is an important nesting site for the Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys livaceae), Loggerhead (Caretta caretta), Green turtle (Chelonia agassizi), Leatherback (Dermochelys coriaceae), and Hawksbill (Eretmochelys imbricata) sea turtles, five of the eight species of sea turtles that exist in the world, all of which are in danger of extinction. The wildlife refuge La Barqueta serves to protect these turtles. Also, the area possesses a significant amount of mangroves, bird nesting sites, and forms a part of a route for migratory birds.

Gains from ecotourism can amplify available funds to contribute to conservation measures in the area. More support is necessary to protect and conserve the sea turtles of La Barqueta. Many threats exist for the turtle mothers that arrive to the beach to deposit their eggs in nests dug into the sand. Dogs bite the fins of the turtles, killing them indirectly and slowly because they will not be able to swim when they return to the ocean. Humans plunder the nests, removing the eggs and selling them in the black market for US $0.50 - 1.00 per egg. The myth that turtle eggs are an aphrodisiac is slow to fade in Panama, and the eggs are ingested at local bars along with the local brew. Sea turtle is still eaten in this area of the world, and turtles at this beach are sometimes killed for their meat as they lay their eggs.

The Comité de Ambientalistas de Alanje was a group formed in the eighties to protect the sea turtles at Barqueta beach. During their years of operation, the group collected approximately 11,000 eggs per year, freeing around 9,000 hatchlings each year. With the arrival of a hotel and other tourism operations in the area, conflicts arose with the environmental group, and it is now in a state of stagnancy and degredation. Local volunteers (aka. one of my assigned partners) patrol the beach every morning to collect the eggs deposited over night and move them to protected viveros. The national envionmental authority, a youth group called Panama Verde, members of local universities, and a few local volunteers give educational talks to the community, hold turtle liberations where the neonates are release from the vivero, and organize beach clean-ups.

Development of an ecotourism project requires support from both the community and local agencies. It is necessary to organize an ecotourism committee to manage the conservation and tourism activities, and to find and train potential guides. Further considerations are the marketing and money management aspects of the project. There are several interest groups in the area, including the national environmental authority, local businesses, schools, youth groups, and universities, that can organize to develop a sustainable project. These groups, with help from the national tourism committee, can form a powerful business enterprise.

Why ecotourism at Barqueta?

1. Increase the amount of beach patrols. Currently, one man alone patrols 20 km of the beach every morning (he runs). Also, the national environmental authority patrols the beach off and on, fairly unreliably. With more funds and heightened interest through education, members of the community can work together to patrol the area every night, and serve as guides for ecotourists. One potential activity could include night walks with tourists, to watch for turtles coming to lay their eggs and protect them from predators.

2. Minimize poaching activities. Some of the profits from ecotourism will be used to pay members of the community to bring the eggs to viveros, rather than sell them on the black market in David. An increased number of beach patrols should also help to decrease poaching.

3. Increase education about sea turtles on a local and international level. With organized conservation activities there are many opportunities for education. In the community, field trips to the beach to participate in beach clean-ups and neonate liberations can be a hands-on supplement to lectures in class. Ecotourism attracts tourists from around the world, increasing consciousness about this topic on a world level. Attention to the area will potentially attract support from international organizations.

4. Keep the beach clean. To have succuess with a tourism project, the beach should be cleaned frequently, using a regular schedule. This serves to provide a more beautiful view and also protects the turtles, as many die from ingesting garbage floating in the ocean. A favorite food of many turtles, the jellyfish, looks uncannily like a plastic bag floating in the water (I´ve made the mistake before myself!). If there is interest, ecotourists can be included in keeping the beach clean, picking up trash items during night walks.

5. Promote scientific study of turtles in the area. Organized conservation measures open the door to scientific studies. The development of updated databases will show the level of success of the project, and also attract international respect and support.

The majority of training of guides and economic development can be given by local agencies and organizations. Already there are many tourists that arrive to Barqueta beach to stay in the local hotel, cabanas, and enjoy the restaurants. Further advertising is necessary to attract more tourists (of the eco kind, especially), on a local and international level. Suggestions include development of a web page and contact with the local tourism agency. The majority of the expenses of the enterprise fall in the categories of paying members of the community as guides and compensating for eggs brought to the viveros by would-be poachers. Without getting into details, a small suggested donation per tour most likely will not enough to compensate for the current market price of the turtle eggs. Outside funds must be found, such as soliciting funds from nearby business enterprises (aka the hotel), or from outside environmental organizations. Perhaps an adopt-a-turtle project. I don´t know...I don´t know if we´ll have enough time...

With the multitude of natural resources in the area, there are many options for other ecotourism activities that could be advertised in packages. For example, the wildlife refuge La Barqueta offers the unique experience of a boardwalk through the mangroves where birds, monkeys and other animals reside. Guides could bring ecotrourists through the boardwalk, or through the mangroves on boats, and offer their knowledge about the local flora and fauna in addition to a refreshing coconut picked right off the tree. Also, there is great fishing in the area, both in the mangroves and deep sea. Kayaking, surf lessons...the options are endless. If the preliminary project is successful, it would be great to have some 4WDs for the less hearty to enjoy the tours. Or helicopter tours...that´s always cool. And skydiving into rice fields. We´re starting small.

(Loosely interpreted from my spanish...hehe)